Irkutsk was really just a stopping off point for the main attraction - Lake Baikal and Olkhoum Island. Lake Baikal boasts some pretty impressive statistics; deepest lake in the whole wide world, the biggest reserve of fresh drinking water in the world (outside the frozen ones) and really really cold water throughout the year, freezing during the winter to the point that you drive a car across rather then catch a ferry.
I stayed in Nikita's guesthouse, which provided board and 3 hearty meals a day. Yes, 2 of the meals each day involved bony fish, but just try telling them that you are a vegetarian on your third day (because you can't handle anymore bony fish) and you will find yourself facing an unimpressed Russian woman and will go hungry for the evening. No dinner for you! (No, it wasn't me. I knew better then to try that shit on...anyways, after milk and rice in Mongolia....). Nikita is an ex olympic table tennis champion and provides guests with 'sports room' facilities....which consists of two table tennis tables....and nothing else.
Olkhoum proved a great place to chill out, take in scenery, brave a dip in the 3 degree lake waters (me - never) and sit about in the 'banya' - sauna, or watch the cows do laps through the dusty streets of the sleepy village
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